6 tips for a better outdoor deck

By Paul Bianchina
Inman News™

July 27, 2011

Few projects are as enjoyable as building a new outdoor deck. They're fun to design and build; they look great; and they enhance both the enjoyment of your home and its resale value. Decks are also a great do-it-yourself project, and there are lots of products on the market that can help you get the job done faster, safer and with better results.

Wander the aisles of your local home center or hardware store or do an online search, and you'll find more than enough inspiration to get you itching to grab a hammer!

Deck design:
Let's start at the beginning -- with a great design. If you have something in your head in the way of a perfect deck but you're not sure how to turn it into reality, start with a simple computerized drawing program. You can pick them up inexpensively at a number of retailers, and they're pretty intuitive to learn. Most not only help you design the deck in 2-D, but also do 3-D modeling, structural details, and even material lists.

If you'd prefer to have someone else tap the mouse, check with your local lumberyard. Many of them offer computerized deck design services that can save you hours of planning. The design consultant will walk you through several basic designs, and help you customize them to your exact size and layout requirements.

Structural hardware:
When it comes time to do the actual framing, companies like Simpson Strong-Tie offer an incredible selection of steel framing hardware that greatly simplifies all those connections. For example, there are simple joist hangers that support and connect the joists where they attach to the ledger or rim joist, and inside angle connectors to strengthen a variety of framing joints.

Where a beam sits on top of a post, there are post cap connectors, as well as post base anchors to connect the post to the patio or pier block. There are even specialty connectors specifically designed for attaching deck railing posts to deck framing quickly and with much greater strength than simply nailing or bolting alone. Simpson's decking site is worth a visit:www.strongtie.com/deckcenter.

Duo-Fast DF150S-TC TICO Nailer:
All that helpful structural hardware also means driving a whole lot of nails to make the connections work properly. So if you've got a big deck project in the works, or you're a pro who does a lot of decks, you might want to consider a pneumatic nailer to help you out.

Duo-Fast's TICO Nailer is designed specifically to drive the 1 1/2-inch, .148-shank nails required by most building codes for use with structural hangers. It's compact to get into tight spots, has a convenient rafter hook, and has an adjustable exhaust to keep the air out of your face.

Best of all is the unique "probing tip," which accurately locates the hole in the hanger before you shoot the nail. Check it out at www.duo-fastconstruction.com.

Bench brackets:
Want to add a bench to your deck? Bench brackets make it easy. Made of steel or a durable resin, they bolt to both the decking and the deck framing for stability, then you add your own decking material to the top and back to form a seat and backrest.

The brackets are angled to form a comfortable backrest while eliminating all those difficult angle calculations. You can see a couple of different styles at www.rockler.com.

Precut stair stringers:
If your deck design calls for steps, don't despair over how to cut the stringers. Many lumberyards and home centers carry or can order precut stringers in different lengths. They're made of pressure-treated lumber so they're safe for ground contact, and all the hard layout and cutting has been done for you.

Just select the number of steps you need based on how high the deck is, secure them to the deck and to the ground using the appropriate hardware connectors, and you're all set. Finish off the installation with treads that match your decking boards.

Railings:
A deck railing adds a lot of visual interest to a deck, and it's also a code requirement if the deck will be more than 30 inches above the ground. Thanks to the tremendous interest in decks and the number of do-it-yourself deck builders, there are lots of different railing ideas that you can choose from, as well as the parts to build them with.

You can go with simple wooden pickets, which your local lumberyard will have in stock. Or you can step it up a bit with metal pickets, which are available in different colors and styles at places like www.stair-parts.com or www.deckdepot.com, or from many local welding shops. For a more open look, consider steel cables instead -- you can check out some examples at www.cablerail.com.

Remember that your new deck and railing will almost certainly require a building permit, and that certain construction standards must be adhered to for safety. Check with your local building department before you get going on any deck design or construction project.

Remodeling and repair questions? Email Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com. All product reviews are based on the author's actual testing of free review samples provided by the manufacturers.

Copyright 2011 Paul Bianchina

An economical kitchen, bath remodel

By Bill and Kevin Burnett
Inman News™

July 27, 2011

Editor's note: This is the second of two parts.


Last week we answered a question from an empty-nest couple who had just paid off the mortgage on their 1980s-era rancher in Pleasanton, Calif. Rather than sell and downsize, they decided to stay put. Trouble was, they were getting tired of their home's tired look. How, they wanted to know, should they go about updating?

We tackled walls, floors, doors and trim, suggesting new paint, some hardwood flooring, new molding and baseboard, and new interior doors. Today we'll discuss the "wet" rooms -- kitchen and baths.

Kitchens
Any way you crunch the numbers, a kitchen update is going to be expensive. But, assuming you don't have to open too many walls, reroute plumbing or add electrical circuits, it won't break the bank. If you have a workable footprint, cabinets, countertops and appliances are all you need to transform a 1980s kitchen into a 2011 model.
Whether custom-made or modular, new high-quality cabinets will cost thousands of dollars -- sometimes tens of thousands. For that you get silky-smooth sliding drawers, Lazy Susans and other fancy accoutrements that will never be seen from the outside.

If you can continue to live with the existing interiors, you can save fully 75 percent of the cost of new cabinets by refacing the fronts and adding new, custom-made doors and drawer fronts. You'll save even more if you use a paint finish, rather than stain and polyurethane, because you won't have to replace the cabinet faces.

Choose some nice, modern knobs and pulls, or go with a minimalist look and have your door and drawer maker include a routed finger pull.

Chances are your 1980s countertops are either a laminate such as Formica or Wilsonart, or tile and grout. You're going to want to ditch this for something more modern. While granite is still the darling, you have a bunch of other good choices, including marble, soapstone, crushed quartz or concrete. We've even seen countertops jacketed in pewter.

For a good primer on countertop choices, including pros and cons, check out http://interiordec.about.com/od/kitchencounters/tp/tp_countertops.htm.

Bottom line: It's up to you and your budget, but figure on spending at the minimum $150 per linear foot.

Appliances are also a personal choice between you and your budget. Figure on spending at least $6,000 -- and easily double or triple that -- for a classy refrigerator, oven, range and dishwasher. Bill loves his Electrolux induction range and Fisher & Paykel drawer dishwasher. Kevin wouldn't trade the Garland commercial range and oven he's been using for years.

Finish with a good sink and faucet. For the sink, deeper is better, and we like 16-gauge stainless steel. For your faucet, do your shopping on the Web and then buy at a plumbing supply house. Or do what Bill did -- buy $7,000 worth of appliances at a discount store and get them to throw in a $600 faucet for free.

Finally, consider adding some under-counter lighting. Kitchen designers call it "task" lighting, but if your kitchen is open to other rooms, add a dimmer switch and make it mood lighting as well.

Bathrooms
The standard 1980s bathroom has a tile shower or tub surround, vinyl floors, wood vanity, and an onyx or faux marble countertop.

Because tearing out tile and replacing it is a big, expensive job, we recommend that you keep the tile and spruce it up with a new grout job.

If your vanity has seen better days, we recommend that you replace it. There's a whole aisle of styles at the big-box home improvement stores. Find one that you like but forgo the faux stone countertops with the recessed sink.
Find a good stone dealer and have the real thing made to order. Bill went that route, choosing Jerusalem Gold limestone. The fabrication and installation set him back about $800, but every time he looks at it he thinks it's money well spent. For a more rustic look, consider a soapstone counter with matching sink.

Your flooring choices include tile, wood and vinyl. We would steer clear of tile, as it can be cold and hard underfoot. And, although we love wood everywhere else, we think it just doesn't look that good in the bathroom. Also, you're one leaky toilet away from costly repairs.

That leaves vinyl. We strongly recommend single sheets (no seams) of top-quality linoleum. We're especially partial to a product called Marmoleum.

Finish off your bathroom rejuvenation with a new shower door, faucet, towel racks, mirrors and light fixtures.

Copyright 2011 Bill and Kevin Burnett

Growth in Tri-Cities Not Without Challenges

By John Collett                           Story Published: Jul 1, 2011 at 6:11 PM PDT


TRI-CITIES -- The Tri-Cities community has grown significantly in the past decade and experts say that will continue strong for another ten years. In fact, a new report KEPR first told you about last week has our community getting bigger by about 35 percent in less than ten years.

Thought of more growth are astounding to Tri-Cities local Barb Maheu, who has already seen major changes in her day.

“They have all that new housing in west Pasco and really it expanded, Kennewick is more crowded cause they didn't have that mall at all,” said Maheu. “I mean when I was born here like 60 years ago, they didn't have any of that.”

The 35 percent prediction is going to need some help according to TRIDEC President Carl Adrian.

“This dream will only come true if there are jobs in the community and there's a reason for people to come in,” said Adrian.

Even if the jobs come, the idea of all that growth may be a double-edged sword, that could affect the quality of life that people here enjoy. One of the major areas of concern is how the schools would handle growth since they’re already filled to the max.

“It's harder for them to finance new buildings and that sort of thing,” added Adrian. “So that kind of growth would be a concern.”

Real estate agent Paul Roy is well aware of the growth and what can happen when it’s not handled correctly.

“Not all growth is good growth, and most people you talk to are pro smart growth,” said Roy. “What we look at that is having the infrastructure in place, having the services to service that growth and not just grow for the sake of growing.”

A bonus would likely come to homes though as they expect an increase in housing prices for homeowners, and bring an overall boom to the market.

“Right now there's some issues there,” said Roy. “Especially in what we call affordable housing under 200 it's very tight, very slow.”

TRIDEC explained they don't expect growth to be an issue on healthcare since Kadlec and KGH both plan to expand. Traffic may be an issue, but it's all relative.

For Maheu though, some things will never change.

“It still feels like it’s kind of an ideal town,” said Maheu.

TRIDEC also tells Action News the 35 percent estimate seems a bit high, and guesses it will be more like 20 percent. That would still mean an additional 50,000 people in our community over the next ten years.

Stay Warm from the Ground Up: The Basics of Basement Insulation

By Charles Furlough

RISMEDIA, February 23, 2011—If heat is escaping your home, this is the time of year when you’ll feel it—in most areas of the country anyway—not just physically, but in your wallet. Too many people spend way more than they should on heating a home due to heat escape. Your first instinct, if you’re spinning your wheels trying to heat your home, is that the culprits are things you see every day, from picture windows in the living room to your bathroom skylight. And those very well might be part of the problem. But you may not know that a huge potential source of heat loss is the basement. In fact, basements can account for over one-third of a home’s heat loss.

A major reason for this is incorrect insulation in basements. There are many types of insulation and the best choice for your basement is based on the area where you live and the age of your home: fiberglass, mineral wool blanketing, loose fill (cellulose, fiberglass or vermiculite) and spray foam. One of the most effective types, however, is rigid board insulation (typically either fiberglass boards or foam polystyrene boards). This type is typically the most expensive and tough to fit into irregular spaces, but many find the initial cost and effort well worth it in energy savings.

Even if the basement walls are well insulated, there’s another consideration: the foundation. Older foundations (like rubble, stone and brick) often suffer from moisture problems and should generally be insulated from the outside. Concrete foundations can be insulated from either the inside or outside if they’re structurally sound. Preserved-wood foundations generally must be fully insulated.

Crawl spaces should generally be insulated, as well, but must follow proper ventilation codes and guidelines (1 to 500, vent area to floor area) and the floor must be covered with a polyethylene moisture barrier.

You might be reading this feeling slightly helpless, thinking: How do I know if I’ve got a 1 to 500 ratio and how do I know what kind of insulation, if any, my foundation has? If you’ve recently moved and got a thorough, well-documented home inspection at closing—or if you’re in a new home and can contact the builder—you might already have records of this information. But in the absence of such records—or if you’re in an older home and feel that time and age has lowered your quality of insulation—call in a certified home inspector. Insulation quality isn’t something that you can check yourself, if you’re untrained; especially in older homes, to do so can be dangerous. A certified, professional home inspector can check your insulation and let you know where it’s lacking and how it can be improved or made more energy-efficient.

In addition to efficiency in energy use, safety is a concern too: When upgrading existing insulation to improve efficiency, it’s essential to follow local codes and laws. That’s where a local, certified professional home inspector can help as he or she will know what your area’s laws are. For instance, in many areas it’s necessary to place a fire-resistant gypsum board layer over existing insulation to reduce the emission of harmful gases in the event of a fire. In many cases, a home inspection reveals safety lapses, like the lack of such a safety measure. The result: suggested fixes that make your home not only warmer, but safer too.

Charles Furlough is vice president of Pillar To Post Professional Home Inspections.

For more information, visit www.pillartopost.com.

Copyright© 2011 RISMedia, The Leader in Real Estate Information Systems and Real Estate News. All Rights Reserved. This material may not be republished without permission from RISMedia.

The tax benefits of homeownership

Inman News™, February 04, 2011
By STEPHEN FISHMAN

The tax benefits of buying a home include:

Home mortgage interest deduction: The interest paid on a mortgage or mortgages of up to $1 million for a principal residence and/or second home is deductible as an itemized deduction. In the early years of a home loan most of the payments consist of interest, so this deduction is particularly substantial during the first years of homeownership.

Depending on the state a buyer lives in and his or her tax bracket, this deduction can reduce the cost of borrowing by one-third or more.

Home equity loan deduction: Homeowners can borrow up to $100,000 against the equity in their home and deduct the interest as an itemized deduction. The money can be used for any purpose, such as paying off high-interest credit card debt. In contract, the interest on credit card debt is not deductible.

Property tax deduction: Homeowners also get to deduct from their federal income taxes the state and local property taxes they pay on their home. This is another itemized deduction that renters don't get.

Deductible homebuying expenses: Various closing costs ordinarily involved in a home purchase are also deductible as itemized deductions, including loan origination fees (points), prorated interest on a new loan, and prorated property taxes paid at settlement.

$250,000/$500,000 home-sale exclusion: Perhaps the greatest tax benefit of owning a home comes when a person sells it at a profit. Homeowners who lived in their home for two of the prior five years prior to its sale need pay no income tax on a substantial amount of their profit -- $250,000 for single homeowners and $500,000 for married homeowners who file jointly. This exclusion can be used once every 24 months.

14 days of free rental income: Another little known tax benefit of owning a home is that the owner can rent it out for up to 14 days during the year and pay no tax at all on the rental income. In contrast, a renter who sublets his or her rental must pay income tax on all the rental income he or she earns.

Tax benefits of renting:

The only tax benefit that a renter can qualify for by virtue of being a renter is the home office deduction. This is a business deduction available to renters who own a business and have a home office they use regularly and exclusively for business purposes.

Some employees can qualify for this deduction as well. The deduction is limited to the amount of profit earned from the business each year. If a renter pays a lot of rent, this deduction can be substantial. Homeowners who are in business and have a home office can also qualify for the deduction.

Of course, the value of the tax benefits of buying a home depends on the state the buyer lives in and his or her tax bracket. Buyers who live in high tax states like New York or California get the most benefit.

This is why the blanket statement "it's always better to buy than rent" is not always true. It all depends on the buyer's individual circumstances.

You should encourage prospective buyers to run the numbers. There are some excellent websites you can refer clients to that have online calculators they can use to compare the costs of renting vs. buying a home.

Stephen Fishman is a tax expert, attorney and author who has published 18 books, including "Working for Yourself: Law & Taxes for Contractors, Freelancers and Consultants," "Deduct It," "Working as an Independent Contractor," and "Working with Independent Contractors." He welcomes your questions for this weekly column.

Common Impediments to Selling and How to Overcome Them

RISMEDIA, February 1, 2011—

Even with the economy improving overall, it would be false to say the real estate market is booming, especially for home sellers. Unfortunately, negative financial headlines are causing some potential sellers to needlessly hide in fear. For many, it truly is not the ideal time to put their home on the market. But, even in a less-than-robust economy, you might be in the right—perhaps even the ideal—situation to sell. Unfortunately, some common impediments may make you run from doing so. Here are a few of those mental roadblocks, and how to overcome them:

I know my house is too big and expensive to maintain, but it’s filled with good memories. A lot of people, specifically in their 50s and 60s and beyond, are reticent to sell a home, because it’s where they raised their kids. At holiday time, that pull becomes even more powerful, when family comes back to visit. While memories are extremely important, they can keep people in a home that’s too expensive to maintain and too large for them, for too long. And, what’s worse, sometimes young adults pressure their parents to hold onto a home. If you’re one of those folks who’s just left the nest and you suspect that your parents are hanging onto the home just for memory’s sake, a little conversation goes a long way. Let your parent or parents know that you want the best for them, and if that’s a newer, easier-to-maintain home, that’s OK by you. Often, giving a parent gentle encouragement to move on, frees them up to make the decision they know they should make: to sell and downsize.

There’s so much inventory out there. Who’s even going to stop to look at my house?It’s true: in this market, there are a lot of options out there for buyers. But sellers who lament a flurry of potential competition often use this as a bad excuse not to sell. Many real estate professionals these days know a lot about preparing a home for sale, including conducting a home inspection to clearly understand the condition—and value—of your home. Speaking with a real estate professional can give you inspiration and ideas that you never imagined regarding how to distinguish your property. That’s the thing about selling your house: you don’t have to go it alone. In the best case, you can enlist a team full of great ideas.

The housing market’s down. The Federal Reserve recently noted that after losing ground in the spring, Americans’ wealth grew 2.2% throughout July-September, and household net worth rose to nearly $55 trillion. But despite this, the value of real estate holdings sank 3.7%. It’s true, the real estate market truly hasn’t fully recovered, and it would be disingenuous to sugar-coat it and say that you’ll easily get your ideal asking price in a week if you sell. But still, too many people read the second statement above—home prices are down—without taking it in stride with the first: things are improving overall. A lot of us focus on bad news without looking at the good. Home values have not fully rebounded. But the increase in Americans’ wealth means there are more people with cash freed up to buy. Also, these figures don’t take geographical areas into account. Your area might be doing better than the national average; values aren’t depressed in every single market. The best way to know what’s best for you is to ask a trusted real estate professional. Communication is the key to success, rather than hiding when you see a negative headline.

Dan Steward Is president of Pillar To Post Professional Home Inspections.

For more information, visit www.pillartopost.com.

Copyright© 2011 RISMedia, The Leader in Real Estate Information Systems and Real Estate News. All Rights Reserved. This material may not be republished without permission from RISMedia.

When It Pays to Do It Yourself

By:Oliver Marks

Published: March 8, 2011

Doing home improvement jobs yourself can be a smart way to save money, but choose the right DIY projects or you’ll end up paying dearly.

Why pay someone to do something you can do yourself? Because sometimes doing it yourself costs more than it saves.

More than 100,000 people injure themselves each year doing home improvement jobs. So add medical bills to your DYI budget, and you ending up spending the same, or more, than if you hired a pro.

We’re not suggesting that you call a plumber each time you need to plunge a toilet. But think twice about what DYI might really cost you. Here’s how to decide.

Stick to routine maintenance for savings and safety
Seasonal home maintenance is ideal work for the weekend warrior because you can tackle these jobs when your schedule permits. Because these are routine maintenance projects, your savings will add up. Mowing your own lawn, for example, saves $55 to $65 a week for a half-acre lawn. The bigger the lot, the bigger the savings: with two acres, you’ll pocket around $150 per week.

When it pays:

• Snow removal

• Pruning shrubs

• Washing windows (be careful on that ladder)

• Sealing decks

• Painting fences

• Fertilizing lawns

• Replacing air conditioner filters

• Cleaning gutters

When it costs:

Unless you have skill and experience on your side, stay off any ladder taller than six feet; according to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, emergency rooms are filled with people with ladder injuries. The same goes for operating power saws or attempting any major electrical work—it’s simply too risky if you don’t have the experience.


Become your own general contractor
If you’re more comfortable operating an iPhone than a circular saw, you could act as your own general contractor on some home improvement projects. That means you hire, schedule, and pay the carpenters, plumbers, and other tradesmen yourself. You’ll save 10% to 20% of the job cost, which is the contractor’s typical fee.

When it pays:

If it’s a small job that requires only two or three subcontractors, and you have good relationships with top-quality professionals in those fields, consider DIY contracting.

When it costs:

When you don’t have an established network of reliable workers, time to supervise, construction experience to spot problems, and the skill to negotiate disputes between subcontractors, your project and budget are at risk.


Invest sweat equity on big jobs
Contribute your own labor to big jobs being handled by a professional crew and cut hundreds, even thousands, off construction costs. For instance, tear out kitchen cabinets and appliances before the contractor gets started, and you might knock $800 off the cost of your remodel. Make sure you negotiate cost savings with your contractor before pitching in.

When it pays:

Jobs that are labor-intensive but require relatively little skill make perfect sweat equity jobs. Perform minor interior demolition, such as pulling up old flooring, daily job site cleanup, product assembly, and simple landscaping.

When it costs:

If you get in the crew’s way, you may slow them down far more than you help. Make your contributions when the workers aren’t around; mornings before they arrive, or nights and weekends after they’ve left.


Add finishing touches
Unlike the early phases of a construction job—which require skilled labor to frame walls, install plumbing pipes, and run wires—many finishing touches are comparatively simple and DIY-friendly. If you paint a basement remodel yourself, for instance, you can save up to $1,800.

When it pays:

If you have skill, patience, or an experienced friend to teach you, setting tile, laying flooring, painting walls, and installing trim are good DIY jobs.

When it costs:

The downside to attempting your own finish work is that the results are very visible. Hammer dents in woodwork, or sander ruts in hardwood floors will annoy you every time you see them. So unless you have a sure eye and a steady hand, don’t perform the tasks that only a skilled tradesperson will get right.

A former carpenter and newspaper reporter, Oliver Marks has been writing about home improvements for 16 years. He’s currently restoring his second fixer-upper with a mix of big hired projects and small do-it-himself jobs.